I’ve been doing a lot of corrections lately and two of the most common mistakes I’ve found that previous technicians are making when it comes to eyeliner have to do with colour and design.
First of all we’ll talk about colour:
When choosing a colour for eyeliner, it is very important to stay in the warm tones, your technician should have an understanding of which of their colours are warmer or cooler. Even if you are wanting a black eyeliner it is important for most women to have a warm black. That basically means that the undertones in the colour have at least a hint of red to it. This is what stops the black from turning blue. I have corrected more blue eyeliner in the past ten years than I can count. The reason it turns blue is because we have very thin delicate skin around our eyes which carries a lot of blue undertones for most women. When you apply a cooler undertone to the eyes, it can look washed out and turn into what I like to call a tattoo blue. When you apply a warmer tone to the eyes, it cuts the blue undertone and you end up with a soft colour that makes your eyes pop. It can be difficult to eliminate the blue tone once applied so be sure to do your research and ask your technician about the colour choices. I always let my clients see how the colour will look on their skin before anything permanent is applied.
Second we will talk about design:
I’ve done quite a bit of correcting in my studio lately because women have had their liner done elsewhere and the line, aside from being blue, is beginning above the lash line. When this happens the liner does not look completed. When you see skin colour at the base of and in the lashes and then see a permanent line of colour applied above the lash line it simply looks unfinished. When applying a permanent eyeliner the line should begin right in the lashes. This gives you a seamless look and the illusion of having fuller darker lashes as well. The softap method is so gentle that there is no risk of damaging the hair follicle in the lash line. That’s how we can create beautiful seamless eyeliner that will brighten and define your eyes while still looking soft.
A couple examples of Eyeliner done by Ashley:
